
Starting and Running a Successful Gastropub or Brasserie by Carol Godsmark
Would you open a brasserie or gastropub?
15th November 2007, 3:21pm
Look in any major UK town’s phonebook and you’ll find increasing entries for brasseries and gastropubs, lines of editorial given over to these relative newcomers in the restaurant and pub business at an all-time high.
Why should there be a surge in these two types of businesses? The British public's growing appetite for eating anywhere but at home is seemingly insatiable with a 5% rise in eating out, an astonishing £28 billions' worth of meals consumed in British restaurants last year, according to Mintel.
The public are also looking for more casual, yet smart places to spend their money, brasseries and gastropubs fitting the bill admirably. These two rising stars not only offer a more relaxed way of dining but they also have taken the lead in giving more information about where the food they cook and serve is produced.
As increasing numbers of consumers take an interest in the provenance of the food they eat and become more aware of food miles and sustainability, the share of the eating-out market in these two types of restaurants is set to increase quite dramatically.
Another trend is that people are keen to eat freshly prepared food to counteract the soulless fast-food business encroaching on our daily lives.
Less than 30 years ago, fewer than 10% of London pubs served food. Now that figure is 90%. OK, some of it is of the microwaved, pre-cooked variety, but even this is changing. Gordon Ramsey has a number of gastropubs in the capital and plans a substantial number in the country which can only help to raise standards. He is not alone.
Stephen Bull, proprietor of The Hole in the Wall, Little Wilbraham, Cambridgeshire and one of the great chefs of his generation believes that 'good food in pubs is obviously the future. Pubs are a relatively cheap way for ambitious, decent chefs to start on their own because of low outgoings and the social environment that many chefs find congenial.' Stephen turned his back on a Michelin type of restaurant that he opened in London in the 1980's and went into the pub business in the country.
Brasseries differ from gastropubs in style, the emphasis on more refined yet simple food and décor. If you want a full-blown meal in the middle of the afternoon, go to a brasserie. Croissant and coffee at 8 am? Tea with pastries at 4? You need a brasserie. They are led, in my view, by The Wolseley, Piccadilly, the grandest of the lot, owned by those consummate restaurateurs Jeremy King and Chris Corbin of Caprice and The Ivy fame.
Once a car showroom (hence its name) this art deco stunner delivers all day dining with panache, the menu a global one with an emphasis on French brasserie favourites.
Becoming a restaurateur in the UK is a fantasy many people have, more often than not, however, the idea put aside, often due to lack of knowledge on how to proceed, the thought of self-employment and employing others equally daunting.
In my book, Starting and Running a Successful Gastropub or Brasserie, I cover all the markers needed on the way, from marketing, partnerships, menu development and staffing to property, licensing, hygiene and business finances.
One of the most crucial aspects is to see if you have the right personality to run such a business and the right attitude. Running a restaurant is not a dawdle as I found out, the book borne out of years of experience. Working out your strengths and those who may enter into a partnership with you is essential and basic. Will you join the growing numbers of those entering this market?
Many fail because they don't look at the whole picture, from where the business is located, to training staff and employing a good accountant who has a grasp of the industry. And they don't understand the art of hospitality, an absolutely essential must-have.
But, if you get it right, running either type of restaurant is hugely rewarding – in all senses.
Carol Godsmark is a restaurant reviewer, food journalist, restaurant consultant, editor of Savour, The Guild of Food Writers' journal and author of five books including Starting and Running a Successful Gastropub or Brasserie (How to Books ISBN 978-1-84528-201-1 £14.99
www.howtobooks.co.uk).
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