The tide is turning

With sustainably sourced fish getting higher on caterers’ and consumers’ agendas, the emphasis on local produce is growing. Sheila Eggleston reports.

Last year spoke volumes about the need to drive the message home about preserving our fish stocks for the future. With the issue of illegal, unreported and unregulated (IUU) fishing and its effects hitting headlines and appearing on TV agendas, consumers are now more ready to scrutinise menus to check where the fish has come from before making a choice.

Earlier this year regulations came into force to address IUU fishing, and while not every country has been co-operative, the majority have. Ian Day, senior buyer for fish and seafood at DBC Foodservice, says: "Fishing rights and quotas have presented problems in international waters for many years, and two recent examples clearly indicate the effect on market availability and prices.

"Russia came under fi re for not signing up to an agreement with the EU and their fleets have caused major concerns by over fishing in seas around Europe. This problem is compounded once the catches are processed because the EU will not allow the product to re-enter its trade zone, thereby creating a huge deficit in fish stocks, both in and out of the water, and hiking up the prices to the unprecedented levels we are currently experiencing.

"Another active example is Iceland declaring a unilateral quota of 130,000 tons of mackerel, a species it had never fi shed before, and thereby threatening other nations' industries and supply chains."

A pioneer of sustainable fishing is M&J Seafood. It has already taken matters into its own hands and banned endangered species such as bluefin tuna, shark, orange roughy, European eel and Atlantic halibut, and it has thrown its weight behind under utilised UK fish. It says raising awareness about the advantages of alternative sustainable species is challenging, but campaigns such as its nationwide roadshow involving celebrity chefs are helping, and little known species such as gurnard and Cornish albacore tuna are finding their way on to menus.

M&J says it intends to have 100 products certified by the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) – a guarantee that its fi sh comes from suppliers who meet rigorous standards for sustainability. It also plans to expand its British Skippers Scheme that supports local skippers who are accredited by the Responsible Fishing Scheme.

Gearing up for autumn and winter, and the all important Christmas period, it is focusing on more sustainable British products. In addition to Cornish gurnard, there is Welsh sea bass, Orkney cured salmon and MSC mackerel to name just a few.

Also in the pipeline is a pilot scheme with the MSC to make it cheaper and easier for independent pubs, restaurants and hotels to become MSC accredited. More venues displaying the MSC logo is essential for encouraging sustainable fishing further down the supply chain, it says.

Pubs and restaurants have followed their consciences and axed fi sh under threat, and this has obviously piled on the pressure for them to have ready answers about what they are buying and serving to the public. But there is still confusion in the marketplace.

DBC's Day explains: "The latest Fish Labelling Regulations 2010 came into force in April. Although it updated commercial designations for new species of fish that have come on to the market, enforcing clear, consistent labelling so caterers know what they are buying and whether it was caught at sea, in inland waters or farmed, anomalies have already arisen by a Business Advice Fast Sheet issued by Norfolk Trading Standards.

"They state the regulations do not apply to ready to eat fish sold in catering establishments, small quantities [£18 or less] sold direct by fishermen to the consumer, or cooked molluscs or cooked and peeled crustaceans. Another confusion is that fish pastes, pies and breaded fish, or fish to which a sauce has been applied, are also not covered by the new rules but instead by food labelling regulations."

He says changes in the rules however means that restaurants now need to be even more vigilant, particularly when labelling their menus. "Even the humble fish and chips haven't escaped and the name of the fish used will need to be on the menu. Obviously this will have a plus side for restaurants using premium fish such as cod as it will provide a guarantee of provenance."

According to new Mintel research, one in six people come across as food origin enthusiasts and are willing to pay more for British and traceable food. Gulam Uddin, channel manager for Birds Eye Foodservice, says sustainable sourcing was an integral part of this demand for more "transparent" dishes. "Largely through media attention, the message about dwindling fish stocks is getting across and consumers are more reluctant to simply order and tuck in.

"They are consciously thinking about where their fish has been caught, how it has been trawled and what impact their meal has on the industry as a whole.

"What consumers can do is be more adventurous and try a wider range of seafood when eating out, reducing the pressure on the supply of more traditional species. To do this, caterers need more appealing products they can rely on."

Since Birds Eye Foodservice launched last summer, chains from Little Chef to Marston's and The Restaurant Group have listed its products, which include fish fillet products and prawns, all available with herb butter infusions.

DBC says cod remains the number one fish in the UK. Sales of its premium fish, such as sea bass and monkfish, remain strong, and its premium quality fish cakes sales have performed well since their launch this year, it adds.

"With the recession impacting on profit margins, we need to continue offering great products and value for money, and sometimes sustainable products are not cost effective.

For example, two-for-one fish meal deals are always in high demand and wouldn't be viable if expensive sustainable products were used," says Day.

"Also impacting on the market has been the weak pound against the dollar, hyper inflating prices. Already we've witnessed a 40% rise in salmon prices in the last two months."

He says restaurants and pubs now need to satisfy growing market trends, and one of them is the demand for healthier options such as fish. This is particularly noticeable at lunchtime when predominantly females – up to 80% – prefer healthier options, which fish dishes satisfy, he adds.

"Occasionally well established market perception of a product's exclusivity can work in the restaurateur's favour," says Day. "Ten years ago tiger prawns were retailing at £15 a kilo; now they retail at just £9 a kilo. They are no longer a premium purchase, however consumer perception is they are premium, therefore creating a healthy profit margin for our customers. This change has been brought about by advances in seafood farming."

While freshly caught fish has a certain status on menus, frozen fish should not be ignored. Day says it offers seasonal products all year round, which is a positive for any caterer. DBC's new frozen range will feature more than 450 lines and this will increase to 700 lines later in 2010.

Lyons Seafoods says consumers are becoming more interested in local sourcing and provenance, and recent research by the Sustainable Restaurant Association showed they believe the sourcing of fi sh is the fourth most important area for restaurants to focus on in terms of sustainability. It's important therefore to have a sound sourcing policy, says foodservice director Paul Murray.

"Educating customers is key. Be transparent and communicate clearly where the seafood on your menu comes from and how it is sourced, and ensure staff are fully briefed – not just on this, but also why it is a good, sustainable choice."

JD Wetherspoon has recently teamed with Lyons Seafoods to create fishcakes made with naturally smoked, line caught haddock sourced from the North Sea. The haddock is filleted by hand and oak smoked at a smokehouse in Gloucestershire, and to create the distinct smoky flavour, local oak trees and off cuts from recycled calvados and whisky barrels are chipped and used.

After smoking, the haddock is poached and hand flaked before combining it with mozzarella cheese, spring onions and a cheese sauce. The fishcakes are then hand coated in a Japanese Panko breadcrumb to give them a crispy bite.

Capitalising on the demand for its wild, natural products, Alaska Seafood is currently working with Westminster Kingsway College in London to produce new recipes for a book for caterers that it plans to launch in early autumn. It will include the best recipes devised by students, who earlier this year took part in a competition to create dishes based on Alaska salmon or Pacific cod. A new collection of Asian recipes for chefs and caterers is also in the pipeline.

New from Royal Greenland is a range that took more than a year to develop. Signature products are breaded and battered fish using responsibly caught cod, plaice and haddock, and the coatings have been specially created for the UK market.

The breadcrumbs are milled from traditionally made freshly baked loaves, and use fresh baker's yeast and British fl our. The lightly seasoned batter is made from blending wheat and maize with raising agents commonly found in baking powder to deliver a light, crispy texture outside while keeping the fish juicy and tender inside.

"This range has been developed in response to demands for quality fish and seafood products that have a great taste, but also tick the environmental box when it comes to sustainable and responsible fishing," says managing director Tony Wheatley. "We've listened to our customers and consumers and created a cost effective product that delivers taste, texture and natural goodness."

One species to watch is newcomer cobia distributed via Sea Products of Scotland, which was launched by Marine Farms at this year's European Seafood Expo. The fish, farmed in Vietnam to European standards, is said to be able to grow three times more quickly than farmed Atlantic salmon and offers a continuous sustainable fish supply.

Described as having a firm, white flesh, the fish is available all year found and can be used in a number of ways. Marine Farms believes the combination of flavour, versatility and convenience means it has much to offer several markets.

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