The Mexicans are coming

10th August 2010, 11:11am

The UK restaurant market is on the brink of a sombrero-shaped invasion. Mexican food is desperately under-represented in the UK but several restaurant chains look set to change that. Clare Riley profiles the concepts and food blogger Libby Andrews explains why Mexican food is here to stay.

There is nothing quite like Mexican food. The first few bites of a burrito or tacos smothered in fresh salsa hit you with so many flavours you can almost hear the mariachi band playing accompaniment to the Mexican fiesta in your mouth.

Whether you're after a salty, spicy and cheesy meal for when you just need to indulge or a fast and nutritious lunch, Mexican food will hit the spot. It is a comfort cuisine that is enjoyed by both men and women, while standing next to a street cart in the sun, in a sit-down restaurant with a pitcher of margaritas or with a group of friends at a dinner party. It inspires people to get involved and tailor their meal. It is great for families who want to promote healthy eating and get their kids to have fun in the kitchen. So why has it taken so long for Mexican food to break into the UK?

Until recently, Mexican food had a bad reputation in the UK because, well, it hadn't been done well. When not properly made from authentic ingredients and recipes, Mexican cuisine turns quickly from delicious, fresh food to a mushy and fatty mess covered in plastic cheese. But with the increase of Americans and Mexicans (or for that matter, anyone who knows what they are doing, thank you Thomasina Miers) bringing authentic recipes with ingredients like coriander, chillies, lime, adobo and chipotle to England, and the rise of more innovative and international concepts in fast food, Mexican food is finally getting the credit it deserves.

The rise in fast-casual dining is surpassing the average standards of fast food. We no longer look to McDonald's or KFC for a cheap burger and fries because we're given the opportunity to eat fresh dishes inspired by cuisines from around the world, served quickly and for a decent price. Consumers are increasingly expecting to get involved with their food and to see and trust what they are eating. And although this trend may be limited to London at the moment, it is why Mexican food will work so well in this country.

In the restaurant market, Mexican food gives people a chance to eat authentic dishes local to Mexico without paying an arm and a leg to travel across the Atlantic. Traditional Mexican flavours are simple yet spicy which is great for the English, curry-loving taste buds, and when you combine the lean meats and fresh vegetables and spices, you actually have a balanced and healthy meal.

Mexican food is not just here to stay, it is on the move. With the big dogs like Chipotle and Cantina Laredo coming from America, and the expertise of the chefs behind Wahaca and Chilango, the Mexican wave will make its way through the country with ease and people will soon realise what they have been missing and then maybe everyone will understand why Americans can't go more than a week without a taco fix.

Chilango

Where are they Four restaurants – Bluewater Shopping Centre in Kent; two in central London; Sheffield Meadowhall Centre

Who's behind it Eric Partaker and Dan Houghton

What's the concept about Dan and Eric jacked in their jobs, toured North America and Mexico for two years and brought everything they'd learned about Mexican food back to the UK, in the shape of Chilango.

The name Chilango is Mexican slang for someone who's moved to the bright lights of Mexico City looking for fun and adventure. And the brand works hard to get this message across. Chilango is experiencing phenomenal sales growth. Fleet Street sales are up by 40% on last year and Islington is enjoying 50% year on year growth. Trading volumes at the new Meadowhall site have already reached 90% of the London average.

What the founders say "We have an incredible level of customer loyalty and most of our new customers come thanks to word of mouth. Each site will be unique and reflect the nature of the location it opens in. We are a young, nimble team and are determined to keep getting better and better."

Word on the web "I adore their burritos. Everything is very fresh and the guacamole and lime rice could be served to me without all the other bits and I'd be in heaven." – Qype.co.uk

The expert view Chilango is modelled after the American fast, casual Mexican restaurants but adapted to appeal to the UK public. The brand is fun, young, energetic and its bright interiors carry this personality through. Trading volume is high at Meadowhall, making a success outside London odds on.

Chiquito

Where are they 64 restaurants scattered across the UK

Who's behind it The Restaurant Group

What's the concept about Chiquito opened its doors way back in 1989. Its restaurants are primarily located on leisure parks and the brand's main customer base is teenagers, families and large parties.

The restaurants "capture the spirit of the world-renowned Mexican Fiesta" serving sizzling fajitas, chilli poppers, nachos and burritos. The menu also delivers firm favourites in the shape of salads, big-eat burgers and steaks from the grill.

The flagship restaurant in Leicester Square features a large and busy bar, a cosy lounge style restaurant on the ground floor and a first floor restaurant with a popular balcony overlooking the square.

What the founders say "We now serve over five million customers and their favourite item from our menu is by far the fajitas. We're proud to be the largest Mexican chain outside Mexico and the US. We started with 26 restaurants in 2001 and plan to open up another five this year."

Word on the web "It's very child friendly. If you want a place where you can take a few rugrats and know you won't have to worry about them, Chiquito is for you." – Birmingham Plus

The expert view We should really credit Chiquito with bringing Mexican food to the masses way before anyone else. Its nearest comparison is with T.G.I Friday's – big on atmosphere, food and service. Families and kids flock to it and five million customers can't be wrong.

Wahaca

Where are they Four restaurants - Canary Wharf, Covent Garden, Soho (opening October) and White City

Who's behind it Thomasina Miers and Mark Selby

What's the concept about Thomasina Miers made a name for herself after appearing on BBC's MasterChef and made a bigger name when she teamed up with Mark Selby to launch Wahaca. They soon saw a gap in the market for affordable Mexican dining and together they worked hard on developing the Wahaca brand.

Mexican food has always been Thomasina's passion, having travelled extensively for several years in Mexico and culture is a huge part of the concept. The current menu has a street food section, where diners are donating 20p from each dish to supporting street kids in Mexico.

What the founders say "I think the influx of Mexican restaurants is all very positive. When we first started out the big battle was educating people about the food. The more people came in and familiarised themselves, the more they began to realise it's not just about fajitas and chimichangas.

"It will take a long time for us to get the level of pizzas and pastas and when we reach that point it then becomes about who is doing it the best. People are now starting to realise that Mexican doesn't necessarily mean unhealthy. Places are now using fresh and well-sourced ingredients and the perception of Mexican food is changing."

Word on the web "Wahaca isn't stretching it too far upmarket, with its cheese-laden quesadillas...and a burrito is strangely comforting." - The Independent

The expert view Passion is behind this concept and it's clear the team has a true a love of Mexican cuisine and culture.

Chipotle

Where are they Charing Cross Road, London

Who's behind it Steve Ells

What's the concept about Chipotle is a huge brand in the US. It says it uses premium quality ingredients from local sources along with quality vegetables when seasonally available.

Customers choose their vehicle (burrito, bowl, tacos or salad) and fill it with housemade ingredients, including coriander-lime rice, pinto beans or vegetarian black beans, grilled chicken or steak that is marinated in Chipotle's signature adobo rub, or slowly braised pork carnitas or beef barbacoa. This format allows it to meet virtually any set of dietary restrictions or preferences.

What the founders say "We think the prospects are very good for Chipotle in London and around Europe. The food culture in Europe is based on local, sustainable and artisanal foods, which are all core values of Chipotle and we have been instrumental in bringing this kind of thinking to fast food in the US. We call it 'Food with Integrity' and it is one of the ways we are changing the way people think about and eat fast food.

"Our near-term efforts in London will focus on establishing the Chipotle brand, developing a high-performing team to create a special dining experience and help us with future expansion, and building a supply chain of like-minded vendors who support our goal of serving great tasting food made with ingredients from more sustainable sources. This will give us the right foundation as we explore additional opportunities in London and other European markets."

Word on the web "It's built for speed, not for comfort – metal-topped tables and chuck-away plates and cutlery. The countertop display of kept-warm meat and pre-sealed pots of guacamole is a bit dispiriting, but a steady flow of customers suggests it is a popular addition to the area." – The Independent

The expert view The first of what is surely many more sites in the UK, Chipotle is already packed to the rafters at lunch time. Chipotle are the kings of the 'build-your-own' taco and burrito bar in the US. They offer similar menu options to Chilango.

Daddy Donkey

Where are they Leather Lane Market, Farringdon, London

Who's behind it Joel Henderson

What's the concept about Daddy Donkey comes from the Spanish word burrito which means 'little donkey'. Joel and his team feel they make the 'daddy' of all burritos and so the name was born.

Daddy Donkey has gained a phenomenal following. Customers come from the offices around Farringdon and will happily spend their lunch hour queuing to get their hands on the street food.

What the founders say "I suppose our unique selling point is that our customers are local and we've formed a bit of a community. It's our only location in London and we are looking at other sites. We've been here for five years now and I think if we're always true to our business then customers will be loyal.

"I think as long as you differentiate yourselves like we do with our quirky branding and our frequent use of social media then you can withstand competition. We've always had a big character with lots of soul and fun and we'd always been popular but over the last year things have really flown. Despite being outside people come out and queue all year round to buy burritos and for us that's great."

Word on the web "The food is fresh, gorgeously prepared and served hot by a friendly, smiling staff. Don't be put off by the crowd - the line moves impressively fast and efficiently. This is the must-visit place for anyone craving a bit of authentic Mexican food." – Qype.co.uk

The expert view As one of the first to bring Mexican street food to the UK, Daddy Donkey has a cult following with impressive queues. The brand is a bit quirky and despite it being tucked away and only open during the week, we're not alone in thinking that Daddy D is one of the best London has to offer.

Poncho No 8

Where are they London's Spitalfields Market

Who's behind it Nick Troen and Frank Yeung

What's the concept about After meeting in their first year of university and then living together for three years, Nick and Frank say they always knew they'd go into business together. Nick worked for KPMG accountancy and Innocent Smoothies, while Frank took on work at Goldman Sachs.

They quit their jobs and began Poncho No 8, which they describe as a "back of the envelope" kind of idea. The restaurant employs nine people, sees around 300 customers a day queuing down the street and the business took £100,000 in its first quarter. Poncho's ethos is funky and fresh and their website has a very cool countdown to lunchtime for bored office workers. Nick and Frank are looking at their second site already.

What the founders say "I think our brand has a playful distinction without being pretentious and that's reflected in our food. At the moment things are absolutely very exciting as it always is at the start of any food movement. Whatever raises the profile of Mexican cuisine is great. We don't think the market in London is saturated yet so we won't be looking to move out at the moment. However, there are others outside of London and certainly don't think Mexican restaurants are limited to the city."

Word on the web: "Poncho No 8 announces its presence loudly courtesy of bright green signage. Expect to see huge queues around lunchtime, as this is pretty much the only burrito place in the area. Staff are cheerful, friendly and good with recommendations." – ViewLondon.co.uk

The expert view: Poncho No 8 has huge portions and famous barbacoa beef. The food is consistently good and there is potential for the brand to interact more with customers if it wants to stand out among the rest.

Tortilla

Where are they Four sites in Angel, Oxford Circus, Southwark and Covent Garden

Who's behind it Brandon Stephenson

What's the concept about Halfway through studying for an MBA at the London Business School, Brandon was tasked with writing a business plan. Inspired by the eating healthy, affordable burritos he ate whilst growing up in California, Brandon chose to write a proposal for a chain of Mexican restaurants.

Whilst developing the concept, he realised that there wasn't anything like it over here, and in 2005, with his business partner, Nadia, started creating recipes, sourcing equipment and suppliers, and finding the right location in which to launch their first restaurant.

The first Tortilla restaurant opened in Islington on Halloween 2007 and subsequently three new sites have opened in Bankside (Southwark), Canary Wharf and Market Place (Oxford Circus).

Going forward, there are plans to open four new restaurants each year. Open from lunch till late, their mission is to serve topquality Californian-Mexican food.

Tortilla's menu offers burritos, fajitas, tacos and salads made using freshly-grilled meats and organic produce wherever possible. In addition, Tortilla makes freshly prepared guacamole each day and aims to avoid using canned and frozen ingredients.

What the founders say "We began around seven years ago and we had well-researched the Mexican food market. At the time I was studying and had written a thesis on Mexican chain restaurants and nothing existed in the UK. Starting Tortilla seemed like a natural thing to do. In the UK Mexican food was seen as something that wasn't great quality, you maybe had it once in a blue moon and the ingredients needed weren't as broad as they are now such as jalapeños and this certainly impacted the quality.

"There are still sentiments and preconceptions about Mexican food that still need to be overcome. In the US four of the top 10 fast casual restaurants are Mexican and it would be a bold claim to say the UK will be as big as in the US but we still believe there can be a huge number of Mexican restaurants in the UK."

Word on the web "I really really really liked the burrito they served me there. I must say it was the first burrito I had eaten in my life, but I definitely enjoyed it. I think the place is great value for money, for a fiver you get a portion that is huge. I got really full. The atmosphere in the place itself was okay, nothing special, but the serving area was clean and that's what matters to me." – London-Eating.co.uk

The expert view We agree with Tortilla – the UK can handle a large number of Mexican restaurants at once, as long as the food is fresh. Although they are more conservative than some of the others, if you want your food spicy, all you have to do is ask.

Taco Bell

Where are they One UK branch at Lakeside Shopping Centre, Thurrock, Essex

Who's behind it Yum! Brands

What's the concept about Taco Bell brings with it almost 50 years experience as it claims that it offers "something different to the QSR sector".

The menu is fiercely competitive featuring tacos, burritos, nachos and quesadillas starting at just 79p.

Taco Bell is one of the most profitable QSR brands in the US and has attempted to crack the UK market once before. This time around the brand is targeting high volume locations such as shopping centres.

As of fi rst quarter 2010, there are more than 250 Taco Bell restaurants outside of the US and approximately 5,600 restaurants in the US. Yum! says it's optimistic about the long–term potential of growing Taco Bell internationally.

What the founders say "The UK is a very important market for Taco Bell. This is a major step in our international expansion, and Lakeside is just the start of our exciting plans in this country. There's a gap in the quick service market for a fresh new concept like ours, and I'm confident that our wide range of exciting new menu items at unbeatable prices will prove very popular over here."

Word on the web "I love Taco Bell, because it provides me with cheap meals that make me not very hungry later. It is because of this, that I would recommend the restaurant to anyone who has a family on a short budget, or if you are just looking for some fast Mexican food." – epinions.com

The expert view The food is cheap with menu items starting at 79p and it has a very fast, very casual concept which has worked well in the "Supersize Me" culture of America. Taco Bell seems to be approaching its positioning slightly differently this time round by choosing high volume locations.

Benito's Hat

Where are they Two sites in London's Goodge Street near Tottenham Court Road and Covent Garden.

Who's behind it Ben Fordham

What's the concept about In Texas, Ben learned that Mexican food could be so much more interesting, so much healthier and, above all, so much tastier than he had been led to believe growing up in London.

Together with his Texan wife, he travelled around Mexico honing his skills in cooking schools in Oaxaca and learning as much as possible about the food, the people and the culture of Mexico. Five years after first coming up with the idea, and with a short career as a city lawyer behind him, Ben teamed up with head chef Felipe from Puebla, Mexico. Felipe has a rich background in cooking and serving Mexican food in Mexico, California and Barcelona as well as in London.

Ben and Felipe set about creating a fresh, healthy and authentic menu, which aimed to show people the beauty and vibrancy that is the very essence of the Mexican food they love. Since starting out, they have brought Juan on board. Juan is also Mexican born and raised and has become an essential part of the Benito's Hat team.

What the founders say "After opening at Goodge Street we realised we had tapped into a massive appetite for authentic Mexican cuisine in London and that demand was there for another restaurant. The Covent Garden outlet will still offer the same tasty, madeto- order Mexican food, but with more of a focus on drinks to tap into the busy nightlife. As with the food offering, we will focus on quality, authenticity and simplicity. We serve classic and exciting new cocktails made from 100% Blue Agave Tequila as well as traditional Mexican beers."

Word on the web "Lime and orange walls overlook functional wooden tables, with cactus pots sitting precariously among the condiments. The fast-moving production line serves some of the best burritos in town. We plumped for one loaded with slow-cooked pork, and loved the soft, floury tortilla, the freshness of the fiery salsa brava (made several times daily) and the black beans, which were authentically flavoured with avocado leaves." – Time Out

The expert view Benito's Hat is cheap and cheerful – a place you would go for fresh burritos and tacos without getting the feeling that if you don't eat, breathe and sleep everything about Mexican culture, you can still enjoy their food.

Cantina Laredo

Where are they One in Covent Garden

Who's behind it Run by Oriole Restaurants Limited (ORL) in the UK under an agreement with the brand owner Consolidated Restaurant Operations Inc.

What's the concept about Cantina Laredo says it is a far cry for from the 'Tex Mex' image of Mexican restaurants; honouring the Mexican tradition of investing time and passion into sourcing, preparing and cooking fresh, wholesome food, each of the restaurant's 20 cooking sauces are made from scratch each day.

Dishes on the menu include ceviche (a traditional dish of tiger prawns, grey mullet and bay scallops, marinated in lime juice and served with a selection of vegetables and spices), and the hearty signature dish of Camaron Poblano Asada (a classic Mexican poblano pepper filled with a delicious mixture of sautéed tiger prawns, mushrooms, onions and cheese and wrapped with a grilled skirt steak on a bed of chimichurri sauce).

Cantina Laredo comfortably seats 220 customers. The restaurant has an al fresco terrace where guests can enjoy a mojito or margarita. The company says its primary goal is to "establish Cantina Laredo as the premier Mexican gourmet restaurant brand in the UK and Ireland".

What the founders say "There are few places to enjoy gourmet Mexican food in the UK and we are set to change that. Fresh ingredients, sauces cooked from scratch, and the use of traditional cooking methods all mean that we create truly delicious dishes. For far too long, there has been a misconception about what Mexican food is all about. Cantina Laredo is a gourmet experience but its also a place to relax, so the restaurant looks sophisticated yet feels informal."

Word on the web "Does Cantina Laredo succeed in its aim of making us think differently about Mexican food? Only up to a point. A ceviche of seafood contained scallops, prawns and fish along with avocado, pepper and coriander, and was spry and explosively bright. Another starter of chilli con queso served with (unlimited) tortilla chips was molten, moreish and complex." – Time Out

The expert view Cantina Laredo is taking Mexican food to a different level in the UK with a fine-dining atmosphere and a massive, "gourmet Mexican food" menu. The food is good and the service is incredibly friendly but due to the prices this is more of a special occasion type of a restaurant.

Related Articles:

• 05 Oct 2011 - New menu offering at Chiquito restaurant chain
• 18 Aug 2011 - Restaurant chain Chiquito hosts Club Tropicana 80’s beach party
• 07 Apr 2011 - Chilango at Chancery Lane will serve free burritos all day to celebrate opening
• 23 Aug 2010 - Cantina Laredo introduces two new menus