South Indian Dining

22nd July 2010, 1:37pm

The Tandav restaurant in Sutton, part of the Kerala Group, opened its doors in June to show local diners what real Indian food is all about. But what makes this venture different to any other Indian establishment? Maria Bracken spoke to the owner to find out.

The Tandav is one of many successful eateries in the Kerala Group, which prides itself on being "the largest south Indian restaurant chain in the UK". It has sites dotted all around London and the UK. 

Ventures under the Kerala umbrella include the Abi Ruchi on Church Street, London, Cocum in Surrey, London and Cambridge, and the Kerala Bhavan in West Croydon, Surrey.  There are also sites in Bristol (Krishna's Inn), Twickenham (Pallavi), and Fitzrovia (Ragam).

Owner Vaishak Nair says they have proven themselves as a group through their high profile restaurants:  "People have really started to realise the real flavours of Kerala through our restaurants. We are proud to bring you pure Indian cuisine the way it is meant to be…light, healthy and delicious. What we eat here is what we are. We have proven this philosophy in every aspect of our business for a quarter of a century. Food is our signature."

This is Nair's very first restaurant which he says he is very proud of: "I got involved in the business through my father Thekkummuri Haridas, founder of the Kerala Group who has been in the industry now for over 30 years. After gaining a bit of experience my father allowed me to look after some establishments without his guidance, which has led me to opening my very first restaurant on my own."

He says he wants to give diners a real Indian experience when they visit his restaurant: "I hope to show the town of Sutton and the county of Surrey what real Indian food tastes like. I know it may be a struggle to start with but I have faith in my product that once eaten, people will definitely be hooked."

But more importantly, he says, he wants to change the perception of Indian eateries: "I want to change the generic look and mind-sets of Indian restaurants."

"So far, I don't feel like people have any expectations of the Tandav because most of our customers are coming into the unknown due to it being their first experience of South Indian Dining. However those who have had South Indian before come with high expectations."

He touches on some of the treats up for grabs on the menu: "Specialities that stand out to me are the salmon masala dosa (£5.95), which is a paper-thin crispy pancake made from rice and lentil filled with salmon pieces cooked with onions, coriander and garlic."

Next up is the erachi ulathiyathu (£6.95) which he says is "frequently and hilariously mispronounced by those who order it". It features "delicately spiced lamb fused with chopped coconut slices and chilli" he says. 

"And the last dish I would say stands out is the alleppey konju curry (£7.50), an adventurous dish from Allappuzha – referred to by Keralans as the Venice of the East. Here, jumbo prawns are cooked in an aromatic coconut, black pepper and ginger gravy, then flavoured with lemon and curry leaves."

Other delights served up by head chef Anil Mullath, previously at the Taj Hotel Group, include molee; a Kerala fish curry with coconut milk, bonda; spiced mashed potatoes dipped in chickpea-batter and deep fried, and thoran; vegetables stir fried with mustard seeds, curry leaves, chillies and fresh coconut grated.

They also offer a "popular breakfast dish", known as uppuma, which consists of onions, spices and occasionally vegetables which are cooked with semolina using a risotto like technique.

He says the fact that the dishes are hotter than usual adds to the whole experience: "We decided to make our food hot because in India the food is generally spicier so it all comes back to giving the most authentic experience when dining at Tandav."

So far it's going down well with customers, he adds. "Diners love it, the response has been really positive. We already have several regulars and it has only been a month. Most of our customers are noticing the difference in the quality of food and taste in general."

He says he plans to change the menu every six months to keep things "fresh". He is also currently talking to an Indian wine specialist about pairing certain dishes with wines.

Nair also sees this venture as a big opportunity: "Many say this was a risk but I see it as an opportunity to pounce while everyone else is down and considering closing shop. I feel it's the best chance to expand and build on what we have.

"Cheaper properties are now arising so the base of opening a restaurant has become slightly cheaper. When it comes to food and dining in general none of our restaurants within the group have been affected that much due to them having a loyal customer base.

"With regards to Tandav and Sutton the area is full of people that have lived here for years and everyone knows each other. The public here do like to dine out and our latest addition has been a new and bright alternative for them."

Looking ahead, Nair says there are a few expansion plans in the pipeline. "Oxford and Windsor are the possible new destinations for the Kerala Group."

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