High stakes

A host of solutions have been developed to circumvent higher prices and increased demand for quality red meat. Sheila Eggleston reports on the latest trends.

One positive that has come out of the recession is that most operators have consciously re-evaluated their menus and brought new ideas to the plate. High quality but value for money, improved sourcing and no wastage has thus helped many to survive.

The pub sector is key to beef sales, while pubs and full service restaurants generate the largest amount of lamb servings. Data from NPD Group/Crest shows that total out of home servings of beef and lamb have increased by 1.2% and 5.7% respectively.

Beef accounted for 47.3%, over half of which (28.9%) were driven by beef burgers, while lamb accounted for 7.9% Lamb has the highest average spend per individual serving at £12.56, with beef second at £10.64. For burgers it is £4.85.

Recognising that price would be a critical factor for operators EBLEX introduced 72 new cuts to add more value to the carcase. Foodservice project manager Hugh Judd says: "Our research confi rms that more chefs are keen to explore under used and less known cuts to exploit the added value potential they can offer. We're also seeing chefs becoming inventive in preparing dishes using cuts from the shin, belly, flank and neck."

A lot of time and effort has gone into developing locally sourced products that deliver. For example, Turtons of Devon in partnership with Blade Farming has launched the Black Label range of beef produced from Aberdeen Angus cattle, which is slowly reared to produce a consistently marbled carcase full of flavour. After butchery, the beef is wrapped in peach paper to maintain the flavour profile before delivering to chefs.

Other companies happy to show off their hard work include Fairfax Meadow, which recently held an open day for chefs to see its Quality Standard Casterbridge Cotswold lamb. The lamb has found favour with top chefs such as Henry Brosi at The Dorchester, Lainston House's Andy MacKenzie and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay's Clare Smyth for the way it is reared to provide consistent quality and flavour.

Using British beef helped Dunkleys win this year's England's Best Steak Pie competition organised by EBLEX. The company says it has made British beef and Abbot ale pie for one of its customers for fi ve years and it appears on the menu in more than 800 of its pubs across the country.

But pork is still the most popular red meat eaten out of home, says BPEX. Figures from NPD Group/Crest [year ending March 2011] show pork accounted for 65% of total out of home servings. Bacon was the most popular (27.2%) followed by sausages (20.4%), ham (11.4%) and pork (4.3%).

During 2010 bacon and sausages saw growth in quick service restaurants while fresh pork achieved most growth in pubs. The increase in bacon and sausage usage, says BPEX, is likely to be the result of the growing trend for meal deal promotions encouraging people to eat out during the recession. Fresh pork however was driven by chefs experimenting with new dishes that feature less used cuts.

Latest NPD/Crest data shows 26% of total out of home eating directly related to a meal deal or promotion in quarter one of 2011, up 4% from 2008, and the trend is set to continue.

"The boom in promotions, which have been particularly driven towards lunchtime, was a direct response from the foodservice industry to encourage people to eat out again," explains foodservice trade manager Tony Goodger. "Many consumers had tightened their purse strings, resulting in a knock on effect to the frequency they were eating out of home during the recession.

"As a result, caterers and consumers looked to pork to offer value for money meals. Sausages featured highly in this type of promotion. Sandwiches and wraps also performed well as hot fillings, including bacon and sausages, have grown in popularity."

However he believes this will have an impact on other outlets as more consumers choose to eat out at lunchtime instead of the evening to take advantage of the deals.

"While this form of activity may work for larger chains, it is adversely affecting small independents who have seen a reduction in evening meal trade. It will also be hard for many operators to turn back from these aggressive promotions because their customers will be reliant on them.

"To succeed, they need to find a balance; menus that offer value for money without compromising on quality. That's where using Quality Assured products carrying the Red Tractor logo come into their own."

Unlike EBLEX, BPEX hasn't introduced new cuts. "We've been advised to stick to standard cuts and a certain amount of reeducating caterers," explains Goodger.

"They're more interested in using the whole pig and a lot of chefs like experimenting in their own way."

Cuts from the head including pig cheeks for slow braising dishes and terrines, and even ears, are featuring on menus. Traditional pork based dishes are also making a comeback such as faggots, which chefs are making themselves using offal and minced pork or buying them in pre-prepared.

One of the biggest challenges for foodservice however is the multiple retailer, says Goodger.

"Foodservice operators have got to stop thinking about pubs competing with other pubs. Their competitor is the multiple retailers and their drive to keep people eating at home. Most of them have hot deli counters, so it stands to reason that foodservice has to have a good option."

In response to the burgeoning restaurant quality sous vide ready meals available in supermarkets, BPEX is working with a sous vide supplier and doing trials using cheap pork cuts. "This is for the foodservice sector," he says. "The longer cooking time gives pork a great texture."