Golden Opportunity

Brits love cheese so suppliers want caterers to think outside the box and use it to the max to boost profits in their outlets. Sheila Eggleston reports.

Canny operators could benefit more from the universal appeal of cheese if they were more practical and clever about the way they use it. That's certainly what industry experts believe.

As one of those ingredients that chefs can't do without when it comes to recipe development, there is more to offer according to suppliers without taking it away from traditional cheeseboards.

Also, with events such as the Great British Cheese Festival, part of British Cheese Week that kicks off on September 25 this year, making consumers more aware of varieties and encouraging them to be more discerning with their choices when dining out, it would pay caterers to give more attention to their needs.

Bel Foodservice UK marketing director Ian Greengrass says cheese varies greatly in texture, taste, strength and melting temperature, so it's important to use the right one for the style of dish being prepared. "Cheese that melts well is ideal for paninis, pasta dishes and gratins, while creamy cheese such as Cantadou can offer a healthier, more interesting alternative to mayonnaise or butter in sandwiches, wraps or part of a jacket potato filling."

When it comes to what's best for hot and cold dishes, Lactalis McLelland, owner of brands such as President and albani, believes there's a common misconception that all cheese is equal.

Marketing manager Warren Macfarlane explains: "In the same way wine can vary widely in quality, taste and age, the same is true for cheese. It is after all a natural, living product. Chefs can use different types of cheese for different purposes, as well as different varieties within each particular type.

"Cheese like mozzarella and emmental perform far better than cheddar when melted, as cheddar separates and becomes very oily. Then when selecting types of cheddar, using a stronger tasting extra mature variety delivers more flavour per gram so it's possible to use less in dishes."

The company says its blue cheese dolcelatte can be used in pasta sauces, on pizzas, in sandwiches, risottos or topping premium burgers or steaks, while mascarpone is more versatile than people realise with more uses beyond tiramisu. "It can be used in a similar way to fresh whipped or clotted cream, it can make wonderful creamy sauces for pasta, enhance the flavour and texture of risottos and is fabulous for desserts and pastry fillings due to its unique sweetness," says Macfarlane.

Mozzarella is among its bestsellers, he says. "It's hugely popular in the UK and is the second highest selling continental cheese after brie. Mozzarella di Bufala Campana from Galbani, with its Protected Designation of Origin status, is doing well this year and we believe that's down to its great taste and point of difference versus standard mozzarella."

Recently Lactalis McLelland introduced its retail brand Seriously Strong spreadable portions to the foodservice sector, which it says offers pub operators "a simple, no fuss snacking opportunity". "As part of a breakfast or lunch offering, the portions can be served with warm bread or a toasted bagel alongside a drink," says Macfarlane.

He says its success in retail is because consumers love the taste and convenience of having the UK's number two cheddar brand in a spreadable format. "These portions allow operators to capitalise on this success. At the moment we're only launching it in the original flavour."

While cheddar takes the lion's share of the market – 98%, 30% of the country eats brie and camembert, says Lactalis, and one way to grow the latter is making the formats work for caterers. Its brie is available in a rectangular block, which it says is the perfect shape for consistent and convenient slicing for sandwiches and paninis. "Using a round wheel of brie would result in irregular and inconsistent portion sizes and increased wastage in the kitchen," says Macfarlane.

However, according to research, cheese sales right across the market have increased by 4.2%, accounting for 395,105 tonnes in the last year [Kantar Worldpanel – 52 weeks ending December 27 2009].

Brands, authentic local produce and the way dishes are portrayed have all played a role in revitalising tired menus and getting into the consumer mindset, with even words triggering choices. An idea of how consumers are influenced is highlighted in a recent YouGov SixthSense report into the dairy market and, while it's primarily about health perception, it showed that consumers considered words such as tasty and traditional rather than indulgent have more significance.

Greengrass advocates brand power and using named products on menus to add value. "A Leerdammer, rocket and pesto baguette is more appealing than a cheese and salad sandwich, just as turkey stuffed cabbage parcels with Port Salut sounds more appetising than turkey parcels stuffed with cabbage and cheese.

"If operators want to break through the cost barrier and up sell to increase margins they need to give consumers a compelling reason to spend more. Dishes such as pasta, salad or sandwiches that contain recognised, quality brand names are an excellent way of doing this and a great way of reassuring customers they are getting a product they know and trust."

The Isigny Sainte-Mère (ISM) co-operative has 600 farmers in the Isigny region of Normandy and the cheese it supplies the UK foodservice sector includes camembert and Pont L'Evéque, which bear the Appelation d'Origine Protégée mark that identifies special products from an area produced using traditional methods with ingredients of outstanding quality.

ISM European export manager Stéphane Plessis says British consumers have improved their knowledge and interest in ingredients with heritage and provenance, which is driving increased demand for continental sophisticated in terms of their food tastes and are looking to recreate foreign eating experiences here. We are seeing a trend towards premiumisation and product authenticity, which is driving consumer interest in food provenance.

One way for restaurateurs and foodservice operators to meet this trend is to use speciality cheese as named products on the menu. For example, Isigny Sainte- Mère baked camembert with calvados served with a side salad of rocket and balsamic vinegar and a Bordeaux wine."

But, she adds, cooking with different varieties of speciality cheese is by no means the end of the cheeseboard. "It is simply another way savvy restaurants can encourage consumers to sample their menu and dine out more regularly."

This view is echoed by Bel's Greengrass. "Not only is the cheeseboard a blank more regularly and becoming more cheese on the cheeseboard and as a cooking ingredient.

"UK consumers are travelling abroad canvas for chefs to demonstrate creativity by including seasonal fruit, homemade chutneys, jams, pickles and biscuits, but it allows front of house to trade up by matching port, wine and whisky."

Lactalis' Macfarlane says: "An innovative way to offer a good variety, while keeping an eye on cost and wastage, is to have a selection of five or six cheese varieties and allow customers to order as many or as few as they like, with options priced accordingly – three for £5 or five for £7.50. These price points appeal to more customers who feel they only need to pay for what they want.

"Portion control is also vital for operators looking to protect margins – 100g to 150g of cheese per person is enough for most and will allow operators to serve good quality cheese while maintaining a healthy GP. But quality is paramount when cheese is served on its own so it's important to choose wisely and respond to what customers like. With so many different types available, there is always something to please everyone.

"As we emerge from recession, Lactalis McLelland has seen growth in its 'point of difference' products – those that help operators to set their menu apart from the competition. In the face of promotions and voucher frenzies offering cheap deals, our products enable operators to build profit back into their menus by encouraging patrons to willingly pay more for a distinctive, quality offering."

According to TNS data, Britons purchased more than 34,534 tonnes of cheese over Christmas of which just under half was cheddar – figures proving that the category is a vital one for caterers.

Festive occasions are prime money makers especially when it comes to cheese and, just in time for the run up to the festive season, North Downs Dairy is to merge with the Kerrygold Company to form Adams Foods to bring together their leading hard cheese portfolios.

Recently Kevin Beer, North Downs Dairy's head cheese grader for the Pilgrims Choice brand, gave a demo on how to provide the best of British this Christmas. He came up with some suggestions about what to serve, how to serve it and the accompaniments that will make it stand out.

Merry Cheesemas
According to TNS data, Britons purchased more than 34,534 tonnes of cheese over Christmas of which just under half was cheddar – figures proving that the category is a vital one for caterers.

Festive occasions are prime money makers especially when it comes to cheese and, just in time for the run up to the festive season, North Downs Dairy is to merge with the Kerrygold Company to form Adams Foods to bring together their leading hard cheese portfolios.

Recently Kevin Beer, North Downs Dairy's head cheese grader for the Pilgrims Choice brand, gave a demo on how to provide the best of British this Christmas. He came up with some suggestions about what to serve, how to serve it and the accompaniments that will make it stand out.

Choice
Christmas cheeseboards need to indulge the senses and offer an array of colours, flavours and textures. There needs to be something for everybody.

Cheddar is the nation's favourite hard cheese and vintage farmhouse is a winner. Pilgrims Choice's West Country farmhouse cheddar is Protected Designation of Origin certified and a slowly matured, tangy cheddar handmade on a few selected West Country farms, using traditional methods of 'cheddaring' that have been passed down through generations. It has creamy notes with a rustic, open texture.

No Christmas would be complete without stilton; with its ivory fl esh and mellow blueing it adds a great splash of colour to cheeseboards.

The sweet and creamy flavour of Wensleydale with cranberries – the recognised fruit of Christmas – is ideal to offset the tanginess of stilton or farmhouse cheddar.

Farmhouse red Leicester is an unsung hero of the cheese world. The colour, which adds lots of visual appeal, is only one of its attractions. It's also a mild cheese that children can enjoy, plus it complements sharper flavours.

Keeping it well
Cheese needs to breathe to ensure it's at peak condition at the point of consumption. Remove it from the fridge and out of its packaging, as it must not sweat, and place on the board 30 minutes before serving to allow the natural flavours to come through. The texture of the cheese will relax and varieties such as camembert and brie will become creamier and more yielding. But there is a fine balance between relaxed and running off the plate – 30 minutes at room temperature is plenty of time.

Allow space on the board for each cheese so that flavours don't mingle into one another. Better still, go for two boards and plenty of knives so everyone can tuck in at once.

Accompaniments
Finishing touches are important. With beer, serve cheese with high heat baked water biscuits, oat cakes or digestives as they have a slightly sweeter crunch to contrast with the intensity of cheddar or stilton.

Any sweet pickle or chutney will go well with stronger traditional cheese, and freshly ground black pepper goes well too.

For soft varieties such as goat's cheese, serve with clear runny honey; for stronger soft blues, try grating a little truffle into the honey; or try a slice of Christmas cake with a chunk of cheddar.

The perfect serve
Serving cheese with wine or beer is an age old tradition with all sorts of combinations working in harmony.

Port and stilton is one, but strong farmhouse cheddar with beer or cider is the ultimate pairing. As a West Country man, Beer's choice is Sharp's Doombar Ale that" opens the palate to the cheese's rich, velvety texture".

For wine lovers, a 'big red' is needed for strong flavoured cheese; a St Emilion with stilton and a rioja with a vintage farmhouse cheddar. For varieties such as a camembert or brie, a dessert wine such as Muscat works.

Port is back in vogue. The flavours of tawny port [Quinta Do Noval] and vintage farmhouse cheddar work well, or try a ruby late bottled vintage with the selection.