Food for Comfort

The challenge to bring innovation and excitement into the potato product category is ongoing to enable caterers to make dishes more appealing on menus. John Porter reports on the latest developments.

It's hard to keep a good spud down. More than four centuries after Sir Walter Raleigh turned up at court with a bag of chips and said "you'll never guess what I brought back from my holiday", the humble potato remains as popular as ever.

Despite the indignity of being left out of the Government's 5-a-day guidelines for fruit and veg intake due to its classification as a starchy food, new research by Mintel shows that potatoes are eaten by 97% of the British population.

While a big part of its popularity is its role in classic dishes, from bangers and mash to fish and chips, it is also a focus for new product development on two fronts. As well as meeting demand for premium products such as flavoured wedges and gratins, suppliers have also developed lower fat, lower salt products to meet stricter nutritional guidelines in public sector catering.

The potato category is valued by Mintel at £1.7bn in 2009, with sales up 27% since 2004, despite the pre-recession impact of food deflation. Mintel's senior food and drink analyst Ben Perkins says: "Flying in the face of low carb diet trends of the past, our research finds that potatoes are a staple food eaten by almost all the population, and sales are rising."

The economic downturn has also played a part in reviving the fortunes of the potato, he adds. "Recent economic conditions have provided an ideal opportunity for the industry to tap into trends such as nostalgia and indulgence. Indeed, as the recession has progressed, British consumers have been turning to classic comfort foods, many of which use potatoes as a key ingredient such as fish and chips, bangers and mash and shepherd's pie."

For caterers, however, the market is a game of two halves. In the public sector, particularly in education, the potato has had to reinvent itself since the days when chips were a universal accompaniment. Regulations now severely limit fried food, effectively restricting schools to a fish and chip Friday. The School Food Trust recommends alternative cooking and serving methods such as new potatoes or jacket potatoes. Its examples of 'compliant' menus also feature dishes such as seasoned potato wedges and parsley potatoes, and rice or pasta as spud replacements at least once a week.

It's a very different picture when it comes to eating out. The market has been fiercely competitive over the past 18 months as operators compete hard for finite consumer spend, with two for one deals, special offers and downloadable deals abounding. Operators picking up on the classic comfort food trend identified by Mintel seem to have backed a winner.

Leisure group Whitbread announced in December that its pub restaurants, around 380 outlets across four brands, had increased covers by 6.2% in the 39 weeks to the end of November – a substantial chunk of market share to have taken in a hugely competitive sector. A look at Whitbread's current Brewers Fayre menu shows it includes chips served with a wide range of dishes including steaks and grills, mash not just with sausages but also with dishes such as liver and onions, and minted lamb, and potato topped cottage pie and fish pie.

The children's menu includes grilled chicken and a Sunday roast, served with both roast and mashed potatoes, and includes the option to swap mash for chips with other dishes.

Even so, chips are the clear front runner. Potato Council's head of marketing and corporate affairs, Caroline Evans, points out that chips account for 83% of value and 85% of volume of potato sales in the foodservice profit sector.

This year sees the return of National Chip Week that runs from February 15-21, and once again the council is working to keep the event fresh.

"Whether it's a simple notice on blackboards, a dedicated chip menu from which customers can pick their perfect portion or a complete chip themed celebration including competitions and promotions, the week is a fantastic platform to boost customer interest and sales," explains Evans.

Ahead of National Chip Week, which runs from February 15-21, the council is also highlighting the importance of chip quality. "We would urge chefs to think about their sourcing policy; buy quality potatoes, fit for the purpose, and store and handle them correctly, as this will make a difference to the resulting chip," says Evans.

Maris Piper and King Edwards are recommended for chipping, but more unusual varieties such as Santé are also worth trying. "Of course, there are many quality, prepared chip products available to chefs too, which can be used to great effect," she adds.

That comment will be music to the ears of suppliers such as McCain Foodservice. Associate director Adrian Greaves says: "We still see occasions like National Chip Week as very important. Chips are now something people go out for like pizza and curry – it's not something that people cook for themselves any more, or that you can make as well at home."

With plenty of generic frozen chips filling freezers at the nation's cash and carries, the public's affinity for chips is a sound reason for caterers to consider quality as well as price when buying, urges Greaves. "Chips cover 40% of the plate and are important – people will talk about them if they've been good or if they haven't."

He believes outlets that make a feature of the provenance of the steak but not the chips are doing customers a disservice. "We are proud of our provenance, supporting 300 British farmers," he explains.

While chips are iconic, innovation remains key to keeping the sector vibrant. McCain's successes include premium coated products such as its Signatures range, plus the Alternatives range that has less than 5% fat and less than 1% saturated fat.

However the success of its Purely Potato range – frozen in dices, slices, roasts and wedges, without seasoning and additives, developed for the education sector – shows that all sectors of the catering market can learn from each other. Giving chefs a blank canvas to work their magic on has proven to be a welcome move. "We're seeing more demand for the range in other sectors and expecting that to grow during 2010," says Greaves.

However, it isn't just by keeping things simple that suppliers are meeting demand. Phil Cumming, Lamb Weston Meijer's UK sales and marketing director, says: "While there will always be national favourites such as steak and chunky chips, or sausages and fluffy mashed potato, there are still plenty of options on the market to help keep potato offerings exciting."

The company has launched the Gratini range, flavoured potato gratins in varieties such as dauphinoise made with béchamel sauce and emmental cheese. Other flavours include spinach à la crème and quattro formaggi.

"The range allows restaurants to offer haute cuisine without the fuss," says Cumming. "Creamy potato gratin has long been an indulgent favourite with diners, and rather than individually preparing a gratin from scratch, the frozen, portion sized Gratini range gives flexibility and absolutely no wastage."

The company has also launched sweet potato fries. Sweet potatoes are expected to become a more familiar menu option, with their high vitamin and low fat content making them a healthier choice than their conventional cousin.

Aviko advocates its steam and fresh range for consumers looking for healthier menu options. Brand manager foodservice UK, Elise Hylkema, says this range uses advanced potato processing which locks in the essential vitamins and minerals, resulting in a healthier, high quality, tasty product. The company adds that the range is convenient, has an excellent chilled shelf life and offers consistent quality.

Its Pure Mash, made specifically for schools that can be served from frozen in less than 12 minutes, and its new chilled, jacket potato with a shelf life of up to eight weeks for all catering operations, are further options.

Playing the provenance card is becoming more important to customers, according to Yorkshire based Farmhouse Potato Bakers. Sales and marketing director Marie Medhurst says: "Due to the weak exchange rate it's never been a better time for caterers to buy British. Better still, with the provenance of food so high on the public agenda, it makes sense to buy British and communicate this to customers on menus. Potato skins and longboats have become very popular in recent years and can be found on menus in all types of outlets."

Mintel's Ben Perkins sums it up: "Engaging consumers with all types of potatoes in different parts of their diet will be key to encouraging future growth. As the economy recovers, consumers will trade back up to premium products, creating opportunities for organic products and premium named varieties. Convenience and health will continue to be the driving forces behind the market, with future new product development likely to feature functional benefits as potatoes revive their healthy image."

Words - John Porter

Related Articles:

• 08 Jul 2010 - New national account manager at potato supplier Lamb Weston
• 17 May 2010 - Winner of Aviko's British Breakfast Competition announced