Cider is rosy

Cider is rosy

Adding new values to cider has helped to push the phenomenal revival of this traditional drink.

The Brits drink more cider than any other country - about three million pints a day, and while Irish Magners' cider is driving the lion's share of growth in the category, it's good news for British apple growers and cider makers. Nearly half of all the apples grown in the UK are now used for cider making. Even Magners uses English apples.

The cider revival has certainly coincided with the Magners inspired 'over ice' marketing campaign, which launched just over three years ago. But Simon Russell, spokesperson for the National Association of Cider Makers (NACM), whose members produce 90% of all the cider and perry, which is fermented pear juice, made in the UK argues: "Underlying things were happening in the industry anyway - structural changes, innovation, consumer attitudes to cider were on the move.

"Cider has been the fastest growing drinks category for the last two years, for both volume and value, and with value ahead of volume. From its height in 1996, the industry plateau-ed then went into moderate decline, along similar lines to the beer categories. Three or four years ago some of the major brands were slugging it out with price promotions. Now the big two producers - Bulmers from Scottish & Newcastle and Gaymers from Constellation - have a broader range of cider and a broader promotional mix that has restored value to the category.

"There is a huge amount of innovation: new products, new packaging, new presentation, different points of difference - organic, single variety, single orchard, bottle fermented," he adds.

While the on-off split is roughly 50:50, the trend is towards premium styles, away from white and strong ciders. Barry Chevallier Guild, eighth generation of England's oldest family owned cider producer, Aspall, in Suffolk, says: "Recent
activity in the premium mainstream cider sector from brands such as Magners and Sirrus has made a massive impact on consumers.

"Super premium brands such as Aspall have also fired consumers' imagination and helped reposition cider as an aspirational young person's drink. Aspall Suffolk Cyder has already seen volumes double so far this year and we expect to continue this impressive growth."

Feeding into the current celebrity of cider are health benefits similar to those espoused by the wine industry. Trials commissioned by NACM found cider can be rich in phenolics - antioxidants that help reduce the risks of cancer and cardiovascular disease. Half a pint of some ciders may contain a similar amount of antioxidants as a glass of red wine.

Researcher Serena Marks is undertaking new work at Glasgow University. She says: "Cider apples can contain 10 times the phenolics of Golden Delicious," adding that there was a variation between different cider brands.
"Some brands use cider apples and some blend with non-cider apples. If bittersweet apples are used, they are more likely to contain high levels of phenolics."

The research is also studying how different manufacturing processes might affect phenolic content. Marks says: "Some companies concentrate the juice [after harvest] so they can make cider all year round. We will see if this affects the phenolic content." The results are due early in 2007.

The type of apple maybe the crunch factor in cider's health boon. There are more than 365 types of cider apples in the UK; makers produce cider from eating or dessert apples, or a blend of all. Cider apples are specialised products with varying antioxidant and phenolic properties. Bittersweet varieties, with low acidity and high tannins, such as Dabinett, Yarlington Mill and Tremlett's Bitter are commonly used. Chevallier Guild says: "Aspall cider is made from a blend of dessert and cider apple juice from varieties including Gale, Kingston Black, Yarlington Mill, Cox, Bramley, Discovery, Worcester and Crispin."

Being UK produced cider also seems to answer questions about the environment and food miles. But some cider is made using concentrate imported from abroad which might detract from this home grown image and heritage. While it's important to ask questions, the trend in England is to use more domestic fresh apples, up 2.5% in 2005, and to use less imported concentrate, down 7%.
With no labelling requirements for this aspect, some producers find a point of difference and make a virtue of their fruit origins and freshness. Chevallier Guild says: "Aspall offers consumers authenticity and heritage in addition to real quality. We only ever use 100% freshly pressed English apple juice. It has sparked a connection between traditional English and contemporary lifestyles."

What's clear is cider is no longer an homogenous category, and this may help it move from fad to firm favourite. One clue to a longer term trend for cider, is that foreign cider is making inroads into the UK.

Beyond Magners' Irish heritage, Swedish cider Herrljunga, pronounced herrunga, has recently been launched in the UK, and the longer standing South African Savanna cider is seeing good growth in UK sales.

Chris Bowen, managing director of distributor Babco UK, says: "We built the brand in springbok bars. We say it's smoother because it's made from Granny Smiths. Our difference is that it's not drunk over ice but out of the bottle with a slice of lemon in the neck."

Food and cider pairing may be a growing infant, but innovation at the premium and artisan level is rife. NACM's Russell says: "There's been a shift in consumer attitudes. Mid-20s consumers are brand savvy, and more discerning about what they enjoy. Gaymers Original, Bulmers Original, Magners are getting it right. Cider is seen as more natural. As well as innovation there is now breadth of styles and different usage occasions."

He adds that family heritage and production cues like those with wine are becoming more important to an influential group of consumers. Artisan cider is clearly developing its niche.

Text Sally Easton Photography Aspall